Certifications:
AMGA/IFMGA:
Ski • Alpine • Rock
Profile
From the AMGA website:
Jeff Witt guides year round on rock faces, frozen waterfalls, snow couloirs, and alpine ridges in France, around the Alps, and the world. He has organized and led expeditions to Africa, South America, and the Himalaya, and some of his personal accomplishments include climbing Denali’s Cassin Ridge, Cerro Fitzroy in Patagonia, the Eiger North Face, and standing on top of Mount Everest. He is also an avid motorcyclist, mechanic, and adventurer, having toured much of the Americas and Europe by motorcycle.
Certified by the AMGA and IFMGA in all disciplines, Jeff is one of the Biggest Lines’ most trusted and sought-after guides.
Contact Info
Q & A with High Peak Adventures Guide Jeff Witt
1. When did you decide to become a mountain guide?
It happened when I was passing through the Tetons and took an alpine guiding course from Peter Lev, one of the owners of Exum Mountain Guides, back in 1999. After the course, Peter gave me a hard look and suggested that I consider becoming a mountain guide. I was like, “Really? I could make a living doing this?” That day I set aside my aspirations of a career in law enforcement and chose the path less traveled.
2. How did you make the decision to relocate your family to Chamonix?
Guiding in Chamonix and the Alps had been a dream since I first climbed here in 2001. After 16 years as an Exum Guide in the Tetons, it seemed like a worthy change of venue. The move has provided an opportunity to practice the profession in some new terrain. In fact, it may have been a little ambitious—new mountains with thousands of routes to learn, different weather, and far more aggressive terrain than the Tetons. Chamonix is also quite a bit busier, and it can be rather competitive getting on routes. Just the same, I’ve become a better guide for it, and have sincerely enjoyed rising to the challenge. Since moving here, my wife and I have been blessed with a son, Everett, and it has been a joy to raise him in our little cabin tucked in the woods at the foot of Mont Blanc, only steps from the original climbing route that dates back to 1786.
3. What are some of the challenges to being self-employed as a guide vs. working with an established and highly respected organization like Exum Guides?
Phew. All I can say is that I REALLY appreciate the amazing office staff at Exum. They do so much to make the life of the guides easier. Running my own business means there is a lot of time spent behind the scenes working with guests to organize their trip and put all the details together. It’s a labor of love.
4. And the rewards?
Admittedly it is nice to be in charge of my own schedule, and also to have a direct hand in helping people create their trip/experience and find the lines they are looking for. I guess that is really the part of the job I enjoy most—seeing it all come together for my guests, and watching them light up as it happens.
5. What is the single most important tool that you bring with you every time you venture into the backcountry?
Obviously, there are some necessary tools to bring along into the mountains. There are fewer than you think you’ll need, and often the simplest ones will still get the job done. That said, I find that planning and preparation for any given objective is the most valuable element. For dropping the biggest lines [safely], that really comes down to knowing conditions and forecasting. The American Avalanche Institute’s Pro 2 Avalanche Course (Level 3 back in the day), was key in developing my forecasting skills—literally the art of turning weather reports and observations into an accurate synopsis of what to expect on a particular route on any given day. It is pretty helpful tool to bring along in the mountains.
6. Apart from the obvious, what piece (or pieces) of gear do you have in your pack that you find to be indispensable on any backcountry tour?
Really, just the obvious kit on any recommended gear list. Keep the first aid kit small, but practical. Bring just enough food and water for your needs. That, and a spare pair of gloves! That said, I’ve been psyched for the new CAMP Corsa Alpine Ice Axe—it tucks in right next to my probe and hardly adds any weight or bulk to the pack, and is as you said, indispensable for the terrain we get into around Chamonix. The pack matters as well. I’ve been using the Osprey Soelden Pro this season, and it is such a sweet pack. It’s a pro level airbag pack that uses supercapacitor technology to run a hi-tech fan system (think turbo charger). Being easy to test and rechargeable in the field, I appreciate knowing that everything will work as it is supposed to, exactly when you need it to. I also like that I can demo the function for my guests, and simply repack and recharge the system for the next go. It costs a pretty penny, but it’s is built to last a lifetime.
7. What advice could you offer to an aspiring mountaineer with ambitions to climb and ski the type of terrain that you encounter on a regular basis?
Progressions. Work your way up to the goal, and then get after it. If technique is a limiting factor, throw down for a couple lessons. Instruction has helped my skiing immensely.
8. What is best thing about living in Chamonix?
Sharing this really cool culture with my family, and these incredible mountains with my guests/clients.
9. What is your favorite ski line in Chamonix?
The one that doesn’t have any tracks in it. Seriously, though, there are so many incredible lines throughout the range, getting into one off the beaten path is really rewarding.
10. And the world?
There are a handful of memorable lines I’ve skied in the Tetons; special days putting in first tracks with good friends. I won’t name names, but a couple of them found their way onto your list. That said, catching the Marinelli Couloir on Monte Rosa in powder one day would be a dream.
11. What are some of the main characteristics/considerations one should look for when hiring a guide?
There are a lot of good guides out there. That said, solid, stoic, and nothing to prove are attributes that come to mind. Obviously, their training and level of experience is important as well, but most of the best guides I know you likely won’t read about in magazines. Doug Coombs being the obvious exception; he was brilliant, and set the standard for the rest of us to follow.
12. Favorite Beer?
At the local bars here in Chamonix, Grimbergen Brun does nicely. At home? Well, I have a special German supplier, so there is usually a case of Tannenzäpfle in the cave. It’s a hoppy pilsner from Black Forest’s Rothaus brewery that will put a smile on your face every time.
On the uphill, Glacier des Periades, Chamonix, France
(photo: Jeff Witt)
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