Europe

The French Alps


⎪EUROPE: The French Alps

I. The Mont Blanc Massif, centered around western Europe’s highest peak and the historic mountaineering town of Chamonix, has arguably the biggest and most accessible concentration of backcountry ski lines on the planet. Due to its unique geology, high elevation, and abundance of glaciated terrain, the lines here are as steep and challenging as they come. Chamonix valley has an extensive lift system, an expansive and efficient public transportation infrastructure, and an excellent network of overnight mountain huts (both guarded and unguarded). It is only an hour and a half’s drive from a major international airport (Geneva), and 30-40 minutes by car, bus, or train from both the Swiss and Italian borders (Italy via the Mont Blanc Tunnel —the world’s third longest—and Switzerland via the Mont-Blanc Express railway or the Forclaz Pass roadway, both weaving through a pair of deep, and equally stunning river gorges). Chamonix’s combination of accessibility, infrastructure, and scale, together with its astonishing natural beauty, is unmatched anywhere in the world. But it does come with a price: expect crowds, even in the backcountry, and especially in the high season of February and March. Don’t let this discourage you however: the high visitor numbers can lend a measure of safety and security not found in wilderness settings. Chamonix’s PGHM, for example, is perhaps the best and most experienced mountain rescue service in the world (summoning help from them requires only a good cell and/or satellite signal, and access to the number here or below), and with so many pairs of boots on the ground at any given moment, the potential for abundant and timely backcountry beta is great—and extremely valuable.

II. The Ecrins Mountains in and around the small rural town of La Grave, France, on the other hand, are more remote, much less populated, and a bit more manageable in scale. La Grave has exactly one lift, and no ski patrol to tell you when or where to go (or not to go), except when the lift operator’s safety crew decides to shut down the Téléphérique during a dangerous storm cycle. A local guide is highly recommended here however, even for seasoned ski alpinists, as the terrain is varied and complex, conditions are volatile, and good beta is oftentimes hard to come by. La Grave is a vestige of a bygone era in winter sports recreation: cheap prices, near-zero luxury accommodations, no crowds, no rules, and no boundaries. Throw in some incredible scenery, world-class mountain guides, friendly locals, good wine, delicious food, and some of the rowdiest ski lines in all of Europe, and you’ve got one of the best backcountry/ski mountaineering destinations anywhere on earth. Get there fast—before growing interest (and global warming) beats you to it.

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I. Massif du Mont Blanc (Chamonix) | Gallery

click on images to enlarge

Northeast face of the Mont Blanc Massif: Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey, Mont Blanc, Mont Maudit, and Mont Blanc du Tacul (left to right), as seen from the summit of Dent du Geant (in shadow), Chamonix, FR (photo: Wikipedia)

Climbing the Breche Puiseaux, Chamonix, FR (photo: David Hewett)

Skiing the Grand Envers du Plan, Chamonix, FR, with the Grandes Jorasses, Mont Mallet, Aiguille du Rochefort, and the Dent du Geant in the background—left to right (photo: Mattias Fredriksson)

Ascending the SE Couloir of Aiguille du Chardonnet, Argentiere valley, Chamonix, FR (photo: Ben Tibbetts)

Navigating the sometimes perilous Aiguille du Midi Arête en route to the Vallee Blanche, Chamonix, FR (photo by PatitucciPhoto)

The otherworldly Capucin Couloir, Chamonix, FR (photo: Adrian Earlyup)

Aiguille du Midi, mid-winter, viewed from the Grand Mulets hut. Bossons Glacier in the foreground. Chamonix, FR. (photo: B Birtle)

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I. Massif du Mont Blanc (Chamonix) | The Biggest Lines


SYMBOLS KEY: Click on the symbol for location on Google Maps; info for trip reports; the symbol for video links; and fatmap for FATMAP link/route info.

RATINGS KEY: Exposure: E1=Low, E2=Medium, E3=High, E4=Extreme Distance: S=Slack, R=Remote, VR=Very Remote, XR=Extremely Remote Max Slope Angle: XX°

UPDATES: while serious hazards exist on ALL Biggest Lines ski routes, these route updates provide additional beta from new developments and/or recent trip reports


1. Aiguille du Tacul, Northwest Shoulder, Chamonix info fatmap E3/VR/46°

2. Angelique Couloir, Aiguille Chanevier/Glacier Talefre, Chamonix info fatmap E4/VR/57°

3. Barbey Couloir, Aiguille du Argentiere, North Face, Chamonix info info fatmap E3+/XR/53°

4. Bellin Couloir, Le Brevent, Chamonix info fatmap E2/S/45°

5. Capucin Couloir, Col du Tacul, Chamonix info fatmap E3+/VR/65°

6. Chevalier Couloir, Grand Montets, Argentiere Basin, Chamonix info info fatmap E3+/R/52°

7. Col de l’Aiguille Verte, Aiguille Verte, Argentiere Basin, Chamonix info fatmap E4/VR/61°

8. Col des Courtes, Aiguille Verte, Argentiere Basin, Chamonix info info fatmap E4/VR/57°

9. Col du Belvédère/Col de Beaugeant, Aiguille Rouges, Chamonix/Le Buet, FR info fatmap fatmap E2/VR/57°

10. Col des Cristaux, Aiguille Verte, Argentiere Basin, Chamonix info fatmap E3/VR/56°

11. Col du Diable, Mt. Blanc du Tacul, Chamonix info info fatmap E4/VR/57°

12. Col du Plan, Aiguille du Midi North Face, Chamonix info  info fatmap E4+/R/55°

route update: route now requires a minimum of three abseils due to a large chockstone blocking the exit couloir

13. Cosmiques Couloir, Aiguille du Midi, Chamonix info fatmap E3/R/50°

14. Couloir Couturier, Aiguille Verte, Chamonix info info fatmap E4+/VR/56°

route update: very rarely in condition; serious fall hazard; often unskiable

15. Diable Couloir, Mt. Blanc du Tacul, Chamonix info  info fatmap E4+/VR/57°

route update: very rarely in condition; serious fall hazard

16. East Rectilgne/Nant Blanc Glacier, Grand Montets, Chamonix fatmap E3/VR/44°

route update: very rarely in condition: serious rockfall hazard

17. ENSA Couloir, Le Brevent, Chamonix info fatmap E2/S/47°

18. Eugster Diagonal, Aiguille du Midi North Face, Chamonix info fatmap E4+/VR/49°

route update: very rarely in condition: serious rockfall hazards exist

19. Gervasutti Couloir, Tour Ronde, Chamonix info fatmap E3+/VR./52°

20. Glacier Rond/Cunningham Couloir, Aiguille du Midi, Chamonix info info info fatmap E3+/R/50°

route update: due to a rapidly thinning glacier, entry is now very exposed

21. Grand Couloir, Mont Buet, West Face, Chamonix  info fatmap E3/XR/43°

22. Grand Envers du Plan, Chamonix info fatmap E3/VR/43°

23. The Grand Gervasutti, Mt. Blanc du Tacul, Chamonix info info fatmap E4+/VR/52°

route update: extreme fall and very serious serac fall hazards on steep and icy terrain

24. Jager Couloir, Mt. Blanc du Tacul, Chamonix info info info fatmap E4/VR/66°

25. Les Courtes, NE Face, Chamonix info info fatmap E4/VR/52°

26. Mallory, Aiguille du Midi North Face, Chamonix info   fatmap E4+/R/57°

route update: very serious fall hazard; a major rockslide on 8/24/23 has altered the route in unknown ways; more details to follow…

27. Mont Mallet Diagonal/Brêche Puiseux, Mont Mallet, Chamonix info info info info fatmap E3-E4+/VR/46°+

route update: very serious fall, serac fall and crevasse hazards In Mont Mallet Diagonal; Breche Puiseux couloir requires rope and a rock rack to top out safely

28. Mont Blanc (summit), Grands Mulets Route, Chamonix fatmap E4/XR/37°

route update: very serious serac fall hazard

29. Mont Blanc West (summit), Chamonix info fatmap E4+/XR/58°

route update: rarely in condition; very serious avalanche/serac/rockfall hazards. Extreme care, fitness, timing, and preparation required.

30. Petit Envers du Plan, Chamonix info info fatmap E2/R/38°

31. Poubelle Couloir/Pas du Chèvre, Grand Montets, Chamonix info info fatmap E3/VR/46°

route update: serious rockfall hazard

32. Couloir Rectiligne, Grand Montets, Chamonix info fatmap E3/VR/44°

route update: very rarely in condition: serious rockfall hazard

33. Southeast Couloir, Aiguille du Chardonnet, Chamonix info fatmap E3/VR/57°

34. Southwest Couloir, Breche Puiseux/Glacier des Periades, Chamonix info info fatmap E3/VR/46°

35. Vallee Blanche, Normal Route, Chamonix info info fatmap E2/R/31°

36. West Couloir, Aiguille du Chardonnet, Chamonix info info info fatmap E4/R/57°

route update: very serious serac fall hazard

37. Whymper Couloir, Aiguille Verte, Chamonix info info info fatmap E4/VR/54°

38. Y Couloir, Aiguille d’Argentiere, Chamonix info info info fatmap E3+/VR/57°

route update: multiple abseils now required on exit

BONUS ROUTE: Traverse of the Aiguille de la Noire, Glacier des Periades, Pointe Yeld, Chamonix E3+/VR/54°

route update: serious overhead hazard (serac fall)

*IMPORTANT: Exposure Level and Distance ratings are subjective and do not adequately reflect dangers inherent on approach or egress. Use conservatively.

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II. Massif des Ecrins (La Grave) | Gallery

click on images to enlarge

La Meije, Massif des Écrins, with L’eglise Notre Dame De L’Assomption in the foreground, La Grave. FR (Getty Images)

La Meije, Brèche de la Meije, La Grave, FR (photo: Erin Smart)

Col Madeleine, La Grave, FR (photo: Tim Connelly, courtesy of Erin Smart)

La Vaute, La Grave, FR (photo: Fred Degoulet)

Téléphérique des Glaciers de la Meije, La Grave, France (photo: Robert Cocuzzo)

Le Promontoire hut, on the southeast shoulder of La Meije, Ecrins Mountains, La Grave, FR (photo: Oisans Tourism)

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II. Massif des Ecrins (La Grave) | The Biggest Lines


SYMBOLS KEY: Click on the symbol for location on Google Maps; info for trip reports; the symbol for video links; and fatmap for FATMAP link/route info.

RATINGS KEY: Exposure: E1=Low, E2=Medium, E3=High, E4=Extreme Distance: S=Slack, R=Remote, VR=Very Remote, XR=Extremely Remote Max Slope Angle: XX°

UPDATES: while serious hazards exist on ALL Biggest Lines ski routes, these route updates provide additional beta from new developments and/or recent trip reports


39. Descente des Enfetchores/Glacier de la Meije, La Grave info fatmap E3/R/37°

40. Glacier de la Girose: Chirouze Classic, La Grave info fatmap E3/VR/47°

41. Danaides Couloir/Lavancher, Val d’Isere info fatmap E2/S/40°

42. Pan de Rideau, Pointe Trifide, La Grave info fatmap E4/R/54°

route update: rarely in condition; serious fall hazard

43. Serac Paradise: Col de la Lauze/Glacier de la Selle/Breche de la Meije/Glacier du Rateau, Ecrins, La Grave info fatmap E3/XR/54°

44. Vallons de la Meije, La Grave info fatmap E3/R/38°

45. L’ Orciere de Gauche ‘La Vaute’ La Grave info fatmap E4/VR/65°

46. Pisteurs’ Couloir, Val d’Isere info info fatmap E2/S/43°



*
IMPORTANT: Exposure Level and Distance ratings are subjective and do not adequately reflect dangers inherent on approach or egress. Use conservatively.



⎪EUROPE: The French Alps | Maps

—click on images to enlarge


France

  • The French Alps are the obvious concentration of high ground along the southeastern border (shaded in dark blue) where France, Switzerland, and Italy meet. The Pyrenees are the east/west line of mountains along the southern border, separating France and Spain. The Massif des Ecrins take up a central location in the midst of the southern French alps (known as the Hautes-Alpes), which follow the arc of the greater alps from the nearby Mediterranean Sea all the way to the Adriatic. As one can imagine, the winter season is shorter here than in the high mountains of the Mont Blanc Massif, which are located immediately south and east of Lake Geneva (the serpentine lake at the shoulder of the arc marking the border between France and Switzerland). The seasonal differences are as much a function of latitude and elevation as climate change. But global warming is rapidly altering this dynamic, along with the recreational opportunities that currently exist here. Click on the image for Google Maps’ interactive version.

Massif du Mont Blanc/Aosta Valley

  • Topographic map of the central and eastern regions of the Mont Blanc Massif and the northwesternmost corner of the greater Valle d'Aosta region, including: Mont Blanc (far left); the north faces of the Aiguille du Midi leading into Chamonix valley (extreme NE corner of the map), Courmayeur du Mont Blanc where the south faces of Mont Blanc drain into Val Veny on the left and Val Ferret on the right (center left on the map); Courmayeur and Courmayeur valley (lower middle section of the map). The Aiguille Rouges, Glacier du Tour, and the Argentiere Basin are just out of view. (Image: Wikipedia. Click to enlarge).

Chamonix Valley/La Grave

Illustrated map of Chamonix Valley, including all six ski zones and their principal lifts (Image: La Petit Foret chalet, Flegere, Chamonix, FR)

La Grave Piste Map (image: La Grave Hautes Vallees)

 

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EUROPE: The French Alps | Gallery (additional images)

Well deserved beers at the end of the day, La Grave, France (photo: Mattias Fredriksson)

Booting up an unknown Couloir, La Grave , FR (photo: CNN)

Téléphérique des Glaciers de la Meije, La Grave, France (photo: Mattias Fredriksson)

Bird’s eye view of the Aiguille du Midi in summer, with the West, Passerelle/Cunningham, Glacier Rond, and Cosmiques couloirs still visible; left to right, Chamonix, France (photo: Wikipedia)

Blue hour in the exquisite (tiny) mountain town of La Grave, France, perched high above the Romanche River gorge, yet still some 2500m below the iconic summit block of La Meije (photo: Mattias Fredriksson)

Grand Envers du Plan, with the Aiguille du Plan, Aiguille du Grépon, and the Aiguille Verte in the background, Chamonix, France (photo: Mattias Fredriksson)

An evening stroll through the old town, with Mont Chétif in the background, early spring, Courmayeur, Italy, The Other Side of Mont Blanc (photo: David Hewett)

 

EMERGENCY TELEPHONE NUMBERS
— The French Alps —


*
PGHM Chamonix: Chamonix Valley Mountain Rescue
(Chamonix region)
TEL: +33 (0)4 50 53 16 89 or 112


*CRS/PGHM Briançon: Hautes-Alpes Mountain Rescue (La Grave region)
TEL:
+33 (0)4 92 22 22 22 or 112